Crédits : Philippe Latil. Translation: Jill Harry.
Interview
You were not aiming to become a cook, but heredity caught up with you?
Yes indeed, my parents ran hotel-restaurants in Lyon and I grew up in this world. Then 20 years ago, they moved to Echigey where they took over an establishment. On evenings, weekends, and during the holidays, I helped out in the dining-room, though I wasn't cooking, I was just happy to taste! I then took my baccalaureate in management and after wondering what to do next, I finally opted for a BTS in Hotels & Restaurants, with the option for Cuisine. So yes, I'm a child of the trade and Burgundian by adoption, caught up by the family tradition!
What did your time spent in prestigious addresses bring you?
I followed a work-study programme at Le Castel de Tres Girard with chef Franck Schmitt, near Dijon. It was there that I really learnt the bases and values of French cuisine. I also worked for Stephane Derbord, also in Dijon, discovering star-rated cuisine. There I learnt about respect for produce, Burgundian cuisine, and the values of sharing and respect. Finally, eight years ago, the Pastry Chef at Le Cèdre called me to join the restaurant which had just won its first star. And I fell in love with Beaune and the Maison Cèdre. Since then, I and my partner, Gwendoline Baton, Maître d’Hotel, have offered our guests a real experience. So that it's not just having a meal, but genuinely enjoying a delightful evening that becomes a wonderful souvenir.
How would you define your cuisine?
It respects and perpetuates the French gastronomic tradition with influences from Burgundy and Lyon, while also proposing creations depending on the best produce available and my desires at the time. I don't like to repeat things, so I have no signature dish. I like to reflect and develop new offerings, depending on feelings, encounters with suppliers and farmers. We were awarded a Michelin star in March 2022, a great success.
Traditional menu, creation menu, tasting menu and, an original proposal, a gastronomic menu for those up to 12?
I did not want to serve the usual simple dishes for children. So they are more carefully worked upon, in appropriate portions, such as smoked trout, cold meats, a tasty piece of meat or a wonderful fish, all attractively presented. I always propose fine, well-cooked vegetables so that children see them differently. It's important for me and when they finish them, I am really pleased!
The retro-style wicker basket immediately sets the tone: Chef Jordan Billan has made us an ultra-chic picnic! "We wanted it to be beautiful but also generous, to please all concerned," explains Jordan Billan. "It therefore contains an assortment of cold meats, a cold dish with side dishes, sugary drinks... It's a luxury, gastronomic picnic!" You simply borrow the Nosmoke or a bike from the hotel, go lose yourself in the vines and sunshine, and enjoy a peaceful lunch.
The Hostellerie Cèdre & Spa is delighted to host seminar groups, corporate cocktail parties and weddings (15 to 40 guests), in fact, all festive or professional events, for lunch or in the evening. "We treat them no differently to our gastronomic guests, so the menus are the same. We have several private salons to suit each request and it's not necessarily more expensive!" says Chef Jordan Billan. "In the case of seminars, we also want to make people want to return, this time for pleasure rather than work."
On Sunday afternoons, make way for Tea-time! "It's a moment for enjoyment, a get-together for families, on the terrace or by the fireplace," says Jordan Billan. With its selection of sweet and savoury snacks, made on the premises, its madeleine cakes straight from the oven, its organic, seasonal fruits, Chantilly cream, caramel and chocolate, all accompanied by a hot drink or a glass of champagne, tea-time at Le Cèdre is an absolute must!
Entirely redesigned, breakfast on the terrace of the Hostellerie Cèdre & Spa almost feels like… brunch! Pancakes, Viennese pastries, craftsmen's spreads, fruit juices, jams, madeleines, hot, cold, sweet, savoury: a copious breakfast before setting off on an outing. "We only propose fresh, homemade and artisanal ingredients," says Chef Jordan Billan. "The baker delivers each morning, though in the future we would like to make our own bread."
To contact reception, speak to the concierge or make a reservation, click on the bell.
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